Expert Interview: Brian Bistrong

Behind the Chef

What were your favorite foods growing up?
I would have to say Japanese. My father used to work at Madison Square Garden, so we would come to the city a lot. I remember first having sushi and negamaki and till today I continue to love Japanese food.

What is your least favorite food?
Green peppers. I hate them.

What is your beverage of choice?
Red Burgundy

What was the most spectacular meal you have ever had?
I was in Siena with my wife for our belated honeymoon. It was porcini season, and we were at this tratorria when I ordered a whole porcini which was roasted with olive oil, garlic, and salt. It was purely amazing.

What do you eat when you are home?
We eat a lot of pasta. Lately we've been cooking broccoli with pasta and garlic. It's simple and delicious.

What is your best cooking tip for a home enthusiast?
Counter space, counter space and more counter space. Remember to heat your pan before adding oil.

Where and when did your career in food begin?
My first job was on a turkey farm. I did not work with the turkeys that much, but I did work in the orchards and planted strawberries. My next job was washing dishes on the Jersey shore working at my friend's restaurant.

When did you decide you wanted to be a chef?
I always knew. In junior high, we had to pick an elective, and I always chose Home Economics so I could cook. When I graduated junior high I won the Home Economics award.

If you didn't become a chef, what would you be?
That is a tough question, but I always wanted to fly jets.

Who/what shaped your cooking the most over the years?
There are a few people. The first was Odette Berry who I worked with in Boston. She taught me to appreciate ingredients and to cook with passion and love. David Bouley also shaped my philosophy on cooking. I worked for David for almost 7 years. He taught me a great deal.

What influences your cooking style?
The seasons for sure and going to the market and being inspired by the local ingredients. Eating out with my wife also influences my cooking style. She has a great palate. When working at Bouley, she often visited other restaurants and reported back on all the new flavors and trends appearing throughout the city.

Which foreign country inspires your style most?
Another hard question. It used to be France, then Italy and now I'd have to say Spain and Japan.

What are your favorite culinary weapons in the kitchen?
My favorite knife is my Japanese slicer, and I love my cooking fork, which I have had for almost 20 years.

What is your favorite secret ingredient?
Lemon juice

If I'm trying to watch my weight and I'm eating at your restaurant, what am I ordering to eat?
Mostly anything. I try not to use too much butter, cream or fat. Bouley taught me a lot about making sauces from vegetables and purees.

When you are not eating at your own restaurant...you are eating at?
I eat at Do Hwa. My wife is Korean and Jenny Kwak is a good friend. We must eat Korean food in some form at least twice a week.

What are some recent dining and culinary trends you have been observing?
Everything being local, organic, sustainable. The science of cooking is still around but is maturing, and the little gut restaurants with good simple food.

What was the most challenging meal you had to make? Why?
Toughest meal ever was when I was working with Bouley, and we cooked at the Waldorf for the Elton John concert. There were 2,000 people and despite prepping for two whole weeks, we were still running late and getting lost in the enormous hotel and kitchen.

What was your worst restaurant disaster?
The Elton John dinner at the Waldorf

What is the one rule or value you try to instill in all of your staff?
I try to instill that we are a team and that we all work together. No position is more important than another and that goes for cooking positions, dishwashers, front of the house, everything.

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Expert Profile

Behind the Burner: Brian Bistrong, Chef/Owner, Braeburn

Brian Bistrong

Brian Bistrong combines a lifelong passion for cooking and over 15 years working with New York's most celebrated chefs. When he was just 15, something clicked, and he knew then that he wanted to be surrounded by food. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America with honors in 1989, Bistrong's ardent commitment to his chosen career took him to Boston University's School of Hospitality. When he wasn't attending classes, he was working under Odette Berry. Bistrong graduated Cum Laude from Boston University in 1991, upon meeting Rocco DiSpirito, he joined him at Gray Kunz's Lespinasse. After two years, his curiosity led him to seek out Amy Scherber, owner of Amy's Bread, before joining the team at Restaurant Bouley as saucier. Thus began a meaningful, long-term and incredibly influential relationship with David Bouley, which took Bistrong through nearly every facet of his growing enterprise. In January of 1999, he became Chef de Cuisine at Bouley Bakery. After nearly seven years with Bouley, Bistrong moved to northern California to accept an Executive Chef position at Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay. He then returned to New York as executive chef at Citerella. As Chef de Cuisine at the Harrison, he proved himself a reliable innovator with dishes like his critically-acclaimed Biscuits and Gravy. Bistrong spent just over three years at the Harrison before deciding to pursue his long time dream of opening his own restaurant, Braeburn. At Braeburn, his menu is largely based on comfort and warmth, but transcends the traditional confines of "comfort food".

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